Whether you're strapped for cash or hunkered down on a snow day, start with a can of salmon or tuna and make a great weekday meal.
By CINDA CHAVICH
At this time of year when holiday bills are still left to be paid and the weather makes eating in easiest, something inexpensive and comforting is in order.
What better time of year to reach into the pantry and create a casserole, an old-fashioned
concoction built around that ubiquitous Canadian staple, the can of tuna?
Even when the cupboard is barest, most of us can conjure up a can of fish and some macaroni, the basis for many a Tuesday night nosh n the Great White North. Paired with everything from KD to celery and crunchy chow mein noodles, canned tuna has saved many a starving student from midterm madness and fed hordes of average families forever (it's known that man has been eating tuna since Prehistoric times, albeit likely not canned).
In fact, today we eat more tuna than any other fish, and nearly all of it comes from a can.
In her classic book on the topic, Tin Fish Gourmet (Arsenal Pulp Press), Vancouver foodie Barbara-jo McIntosh writes a tribute to the cans of fish that are squirreled away in every Canadian cupboard for fast, easy meals. From clams to caviar, salmon to sardines, she's included
gourmet recipes created from our favourite pantry foods, including tinned tuna.
``These economical recipes — tin fish combined with various ingredients that are readily available in any well-stocked cupboard — are updated versions of the recipes I loved as a child,'' McIntosh writes by way of introduction to her tuna creations, from tuna and artichoke salad to curried tuna and rice, and her favourite apple, cheddar and tuna melt.
``With this selection, I happily liberate tuna in a tin from the comforting confines of the brown bag and the casserole dish.''
McIntosh, a Vancouver legend in the local food world with her former foodie mecca, Barbara-jo's Books for Cooks, wrote her Tin Fish Gourmet back before we could get gourmet seafood in a can, the kind of tin that's popped in the best tapas bars in Spain (and now here in Canada). Head to a good deli or gourmet grocer (Victoria's The Market Garden has an impressive collection of imported tinned fish, especially Portuguese and Spanish conservas), and you will find something delicious to serve your guests, straight up. Think Cantabrian White Anchovies, gourmet Galacian cockles, mussels and sardines in olive oil, and other beautifully packaged canned fish and shellfish.
This is artisan canned fish, and you can even find Canadian options, whether the lobster from Scout Canning or the canned tuna and salmon from St. Jean's Cannery on Vancouver Island (the only local cannery that still cold packs the fish in the tins by hand before processing, retaining all of the delicious and healthy natural oils in the can).
But even if you only have commercial canned salmon and tuna in the pantry, you can enjoy it in a variety of innovative ways, and make a decent dinner without breaking the bank.
ALL ABOUT TUNA
Tuna is a great source of essential fatty acids (EFAs), cellular building blocks that have been touted as having anti-aging properties. While you'll get enough omega-6 fatty acids by eating meats, omega-3 fatty acids are found only in cold-water fish. And ifyou don't get them in fish like tuna, salmon or cod, you'll have to go back to spooning out the yucky cod liver oil.
Native to the Mediterranean, tuna was a favourite food of the ancient Greeks, both preserved in oil, salted and dried. Once fished in small net-traps, much of the tuna we eat today is taken by huge tuna boats, that scrape the ocean floor and scoop up tons of fish in
a single haul or snag the fish in miles of drifting nets or long lines.
So, it best to look for canned tuna that's fished sustainably by smaller operations, and canned under local labels such as St. Jeans, F.A.S. (Victoria's Finest At Sea) or Skipper Otto. When fish is quickly chilled and handled well after its caught, the quality and flavour is palpable, and fish that's raw-packed retains all of its natural juices and nutrition.
It's more expensive but is always a superior product, as its akin to traditional home-canned fish rather that canned fish from large-scale commercial canneries. In the latter, the fish is precooked before canning. This leaches the natural oils and allows the canners to remove every bit of fish from the bones. But the process also strips the fish of a lot of its healthy omega-3 oils, which are then replaced by water or vegetable oils in the can.
Also, the smaller tuna caught by local fishers (and harder to sell to big canneries) are less likely to be contaminated with pollutants like mercury, which are known to accumulate in the older, larger fish that are targeted by the big long liners in the open ocean. Mercury is now found at some level in all ocean fish but tuna are particularly problematic due to their long life. Generally, the bigger the fish, the more likely it will have a build up of pollutants.
Tuna are found in waters around the world, from the Pacific to the Atlantic and Indian oceans. Today, most of the canned tuna we eat is packaged in canneries where labour costs are low, mainly Thailand, southeast Asian and Ecuador. In Italy, half of the tuna caught comes from the waters around Sicily, many of the giant fish averaging over 500 pounds.
Tuna are large and fast fish — second only to sailfish in speed — and can reach speeds of 80 km/h. Streamlined, from their pointed nose to their sharply forked tail, a tuna is firm and muscular, with retractable fins to make them more aerodynamic.
The bluefin is the largest of the tuna, weighing up to 1,600 pounds, and has the reddest flesh, preferred by the Japanese for sushi. By North American standards, the favourite tuna is the much smaller white-fleshed albacore or white tuna, fished from both the
Atlantic and the Pacific, and south of California as far as Ecuador. Canned bluefin, denser and oilier, is marketed as ``dark meat tuna'' or ``tano.'' According to studies, light tuna such as skip jack has the lowest levels of mercury contamination, but is also considered an inferior fish in terms of flavour and texture.
WHAT'S IN THE CAN
There are many different kinds of canned tuna — packed in canola oil, water, olive oil, even salted and smoked. Canned tuna has a shelf life of 12 months and, once opened, should be
refrigerated and eaten within 24 hours.
Colour ranges from pure white to muddy reddish brown, and texture can be a solid chunk of meat, large or small flakes or an almost ground consistency.
Tuna is naturally a leaner fish compared to salmon, which means the meat can be considerably drier when water packed in cans (and in need of mayo or dresssing).
Italian style tunas packed in good quality olive oil are some of the tastiest, although a poor grade of olive oil can spoil the flavour. Artisan brands of fish, that are packed raw before processing, are far superior, with fresh milds flavour in both the meat and the natural juices in the can.
If you like your tuna without any oil, natural or otherwise, most solid albacore tunas packed in water have good flavour but are routinely dry in texture. Those packed in olive oil have far more flavour and palatable texture but, as always, you pay for the added flavour with calories
and fat, 8-12 g of fat and 130-160 calories compared to 1-2 g of fat and 60-70 calories for water-pack tuna. Tuna packed in oil derives 55 per cent of its calories from fat — once drained, the fat calories drop to a more reasonable 35 per cent.
You get what you pay for in the cheaper ``flaked'' or ``chunk'' tuna — most I tested were darker in colour, stronger in fishy and tinny tastes, with smaller flakes and drier or mushier texture.
All canned tuna, except for low-sodium brands, are high in salt (more than 400 mg per 1/2 cup serving).
BUY LESS BUT BETTER
Next time you open a can of tuna, measure how much water you're paying for — I found anywhere from 2-5 tablespoons of water in a 170-185 g tin. Also check on the size of the can. Like the candy bar companies, tuna canners are shrinking their cans to shave costs, so you need to note the volume when comparing prices.
RECIPES:
APPLE, CHEDDAR AND TUNA MELT
Barbara-jo McIntosh, author of The Tin Fish Gourmet, says she started making tuna melts as a kid in high school — this is her grown-up version.
One 6-oz (170 g) tinned tuna, drained
1 tbsp (15 mL) mayonnaise
1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 mL) diced red onions
1/4 cup (60 mL) diced celery
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and finely cubed
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 sourdough baguette
3/4 cup (185 mL) grated, aged Cheddar cheese
In a medium bowl, combine tuna with mayonnaise, lemon juice, onions, celery, and apples. Season with pepper and combine well.
Slice baguette into 8 pieces about 1/2 in (1 cm) thick. Cover slices with mixture, then sprinkle each with cheese.
Place rack in top portion of oven and turn on broiler. Place slices on a cookie sheet and put under broiler for 2 to 3 minutes until warmed through and cheese is bubbly and begins to brown (but don’t let them burn).
ALBACORE MARINARA
A bit of cayenne or garlic chili paste gives this sauce an arrabiata-style kick.
1 pound (500 g) dried pasta (short pasta like penne or rotini)
2 tablespoons (25 ml) olive oil
1/2 red onion minced
1/2 red bell pepper, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced or crushed
1 28-ounce can (796 ml) crushed tomatoes in puree
1/2 cup (125 ml) white wine
1/2 cup (125 ml) sliced black olives
salt and pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper or garlic chili paste (to taste)
2 tablespoons (25 ml) chopped fresh basil
8 ounces (227 ml) canned albacore or chunk tuna, roughly flaked
Saute onion, bell pepper and garlic in olive oil until tender. Add
tomatoes, wine, olives, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Simmer
20 minutes or until sauce is nicely thickened. Season with salt and pepper, and cayenne or hot sauce, to taste. Stir in fresh basil.
Fold in the flaked tuna carefully, to retain pieces of fish, and heat through.
Meanwhile cook pasta in boiling, salted water until al dente.
Drain pasta and toss with hot sauce. Heat through and serve. Serves 4.
TUNA TAPENADE
This savoury paste is a traditional spread in the south of France. Spread it on fresh baguette or toasts for appetizers, or toss it with hot pasta for an instant sauce.
1 cup (250 ml) pitted green olives
1 tablespoon (15 ml) minced garlic
2 tablespoons (25 ml) melted butter or olive oil
3.5 ounce tin (100 ml) tuna in oil
1 teaspoon (5 ml) grainy mustard
1/4 teaspoon (1 ml) Tabasco sauce
juice and zest of 1/2 lemon, minced
2 tablespoons (25 ml) chopped fresh parsley
In food processor, combine olive and garlic. Pulse until coarsely
chopped. Add butter or oil, tuna, mustard, hot sauce and lemon
juice. Pulse again to combine. Tapenade should be pasty but still a
little chunky. Add lemon zest and parsley and pulse just to combine.
Refrigerate.
SPICY SALMON POTATO CAKES
Classic fish cakes combine mashed potatoes with tinned or leftover fish (salmon, tuna, cod), a beaten egg and chopped green onions. Take them into more exotic territory with Indian spices, for a golden cake reminiscent of your favourite samosa or dosa filling, for snacks or simple supper for two with a salad.
3 large potatoes, peeled and boiled until tender and drained well
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon butter
1⁄2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon grated ginger
1 small jalapeno or serrano chili pepper, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 213-g can salmon, drained and mashed (skin and bones removed)
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
salt and freshly ground black pepper
flour or panko crumbs (optional) additional oil for frying cakes
Chutney
Cook potatoes, mash roughly and chill.
Heat the oil and butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the cumin and mustard seeds. Stir while the seeds pop, for about 30 seconds. Add the chopped onion and cook over medium heat until golden brown. Add the ginger and minced peppers and cook 1 minute longer. Stir in the turmeric. Remove from heat, cool to room temperature, and mix with the mashed potatoes.
Stir in the beaten egg, then fold in the salmon and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper.
Make into small cakes, about 2 inches in diameter. For a crispier exterior, dip fish cakes into flour or breadcrumbs to coat before frying in a little oil in a non-stick pan, until brown on both sides. Serve hot with chutney. Serves 2-4.
STUFFED POTATOES
With a couple of baking potatoes and a can of salmon, make an easy and economical meal for two.
Double recipe for the family or prep in advance to microwave whenever the kids return from school or soccer practice. Switch it up based on what’s fresh or what’s in the fridge. Leftover steamed broccoli and cheddar, for example, can easily stand in for the spinach, feta, and dill.
One 7.5-oz (213-mL) can wild sockeye salmon, drained and mashed
2 baking potatoes
1-2 tablespoons butter ½ cup chopped fresh spinach (or leftover cooked vegetables)
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
1⁄4 cup grated mozzarella cheese
2 green onion, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill (or other herbs)
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
Drain the salmon and use a fork to break it into chunks. Discard any skin and bones.
Scrub the potatoes well and pierce with a fork all over to allow steam to escape. Bake the potatoes for 45 to 60 minutes or until soft—the potatoes should yield to pressure when squeezed.
Cut the potatoes in half, lengthwise. Use a spoon to carefully scoop the flesh into a medium bowl, leaving the baked shells intact.
Mash the potato flesh with butter and stir in the spinach, cheese, green onions, dill, salt, and pepper. Fold in the salmon. Pile the mixture back into the potato skins and place the stuffed potatoes on a baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until hot and bubbly. Serves 2. Easily doubled.
SAVOURY BREAD PUDDING WITH SALMON AND DILL
This is classic comfort food. Make it the night before and bake it for brunch, or whip it together after work. Use good quality canned salmon – choose wild sockeye for it’s amazing flavor, healthy Omega 3’s and gorgeous colour. If you like smoked salmon, use a can of alder-smoked fish from the fish market. This is the perfect place to use up that stale loaf of French bread or any cooked vegetables/ meats or cheeses that are hanging around in the refrigerator. Be creative and change the ingredients to suit your mood.
1 medium onion, chopped or thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups bread cubes, 2-inch cubes (slightly stale French bread is the best)
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
3 cups chopped fresh spinach
2 cups grated cheese (gruyere, gouda, fontina, etc.), divided
1/2 teaspoon each: salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup milk
1 can (220 g) sockeye salmon, drained
Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and slowly cook the onions until they are soft and caramelized – this will take 20-30 minutes. Add the garlic halfway through cooking.
In a large bowl, combine the caramelized onions with the bread cubes, dill and spinach and toss. Toss in 1 1/2 cups of the grated cheese.
Whisk together the eggs and milk with the salt and pepper. Pour this evenly over the bread cubes and stir until most of the egg mixture has been soaked up by the bread.
In a deep, eight-inch round or oval casserole dish that has been lightly rubbed with olive oil, layer half of the bread mixture. Break the salmon into chunks and spread evenly on top, then finish with the remaining bread cubes. Press down lightly so that most of the bread is soaked with the custard. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup of grated cheese.
Bake the casserole, uncovered, in a 350ºF oven for 45 minutes, until the pudding is golden brown and crisp on top. Cool 5 minutes before serving. Serves 4.
©Cinda Chavich
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