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NUT CRACKERS: Have yourself a nutty little Christmas 

Nuts are harvested around the world at this time of year and I have collected some of my favourite holiday recipes for all of you nut nuts!

By CINDA CHAVICH


When I was a kid, cracking through a big bowl of nuts, still enclosed in their hard shells, was a holiday tradition.

Nuts were exotic imports from around the world — fat, almost impenetrable black Brazil nuts, bulbous walnuts, smooth, shiny pecans and hazelnuts. They were piled into wooden bowls, with elaborate crackers and dangerous-looking metal picks for noshing, with just the right amount of energy required to extract the sweet nutmeats to prevent over indulging.


These days elaborate nutcrackers are often more decorative than practical, as nuts come pre-shelled, in giant bags from wholesale supermarkets all year round.


But you’ll still find freshly-harvested nuts in the shell around the holidays, because the tradition of eating whole nuts at this time of year runs deep.


Who doesn’t wait for The Nutcracker ballet or the visit from Saint Nick, that bearded bearer of nuts, oranges and sweets?






In ancient Rome, a good nut harvest signaled a fertile future, so nuts were scattered at weddings and at the winter soltice festival of Saturnalia. Nuts became a symbol of good luck, the nut bowl passed at winter feasts to share good fortune with guests.


So it’s not surprising that nuts are featured in many traditional holiday recipes, whether you’re rolling up a nutty ruglach or walnut roll, making crisp hazelnut meringue cookies, nutty fruitcakes or chestnut stuffings.



BUYING FRESH NUTS

Hazelnuts (a.k.a. filberts) are cultivated in BC and local nuts are some of the freshest nuts you can buy. Though a blight destroyed many trees in recent years, growers are now replanting with blight-resistant rootstock to revive the industry.



Max Young of Victoria’s Island Nut Roastery sources fresh nuts from around the world. He sells them raw, roasted and ground into nut butters at the family’s bulk food shop, For Good Measure, in Cadboro Bay, and at local grocers including The Root Cellar and Market on Yates.


Hazelnuts come from farms on Vancouver Island, he says, while almonds are grown in California and the finest cashews arrive from Vietnam.

“We roast every nut under the sun – pecans, hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds – and the holidays are our busiest time,” says Young.



Nuts are loaded with healthy fats, protein, fiber and important vitamins and minerals. Walnuts and almonds in particular have both been shown to help reduce total and bad (LDL) cholesterol.

Chestnuts are lowest in fat among all nuts, while macadamia nuts, natives of Australia, are the highest in natural oils and calories. Both cashews and Brazil nuts originate in the Brazilian rain forest, but the former are now grown from India to Southeast Asia.


COOKING WITH NUTS

If you’re baking with gluten free nut flours, you’ll need to include some wheat flours for lighter results. Or choose recipes for dense chocolate desserts or meringue-based cookies made with ground nuts.

Eat nuts raw, or roast them in a hot pan with a little butter or olive oil, to sprinkle over salads for a bit of crunchy contrast and toss with spices for snacking. Toasting deepens the flavour and can tame the bitterness found in some nuts. You can toast nuts in a dry pan on the stovetop or in the oven, but watch them carefully. Toasting only takes a few minutes - it’s easy to burn nuts.

I like to buy nuts in bulk from local shops that have a high turnover. Nuts are harvested in late fall so that’s when they are freshest – ask your retailer when they expect the new crop to arrive.


Fresh nuts have a two-year shelf life, but are best stored in a cool, dark place, refrigerated or frozen, preferably vacuum-packed. Old nuts may taste stale or turn rancid if not properly stored.

So look for the fresh, new crop of nuts, sold in the shell at this time of year.

Take a trip to a local thrift store, where you’re certain to find an eclectic selection of vintage crackers, then get cracking and cooking.

And have yourself a nutty little Christmas!


 

 

RECIPES:


ROSEMARY PECANS


These sweet and spicy nuts, flavoured with fresh rosemary from your winter garden and some zippy cayenne, are simple to make and addictive, too. Packaged in a pretty bowl or festive tin, these nuts make a nice hostess gift.

 

3 cups raw pecans

2 Tbsp olive oil or butter

2 Tbsp brown (Demererra) sugar

¼ tsp cayenne

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 Tbsp minced fresh rosemary

 

Preheat the oven to 400˚F.  Spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5-10 minutes, stirring at least once. They should be hot and fragrant but watch carefully – they can burn quickly.


Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine olive oil or butter with the brown sugar, cayenne, salt and rosemary, mixing well to form a slurry.

Add the hot nuts to the bowl and toss for several minutes, until the nuts are coated and cooled. Makes 2 cups.

 

WALNUT ROLL

My grandma used to make two kinds of rolled sweet breads for holidays — one filled with poppyseeds, another with sweet ground walnuts. She made long loaves, like big jelly rolls, but I’ve also discovered a new way to present this delicious coffee cake — made into long, narrower rolls that are coiled again into big round breads, or folded into loaf pans.

Either way, you get a sweet treat that’s filled with nutty flavour, and perfect to share as a holiday gift. From High Plains by Cinda Chavich (Fifth House).

 

Dough:

1 package  dry yeast  (1 tablespoon)

1/4 cup warm water mixed with 1 tsp sugar

1 cup milk, scalded (or sour cream)

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 egg plus 1 egg yolk, beaten

1/4 tsp salt

1/3 cup butter

3 1/2-4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

 

Filling:

2 cups ground walnuts

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup cream

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla

2 Tbsp softened butter

 

Sprinkle yeast over warm sugar water and let stand 10 minutes to proof. In a small saucepan, scald the milk – bring it just up to a simmer and remove from heat, then stir in the ¼ cup of sugar and butter. Stir until the butter is melted. When cool, add the beaten egg and egg yolk and salt.

Put 3 1/2 cups of the flour into a food processor (or large bowl) and add the milk mixture, processing until the dough forms a ball. If it’s too wet, add a little more flour. The dough should be soft, not sticky.

Set the dough in a greased bowl in a warm spot, cover with a clean towel and let rise for an hour, until doubled. Punch the dough down and roll (or wrap well and refrigerate overnight and roll the next day). To make the filling, grind the walnuts in the food processor and add the remaining ingredients. Process to combine well.

Divide the dough in half and roll out each piece, on a floured surface, into an 8 X 15-inch rectangle. Spread each with half of the filling and roll into large oval loaves, pinching the ends to seal. Place loaves, seam side down, on an parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with a clean towel and set aside in a warm place to rise for 30-40 minutes. Brush with beaten egg and water mixture to glaze, then bake at 350˚F for 35-40 minutes, until golden.

Set loaves aside to cool on a rack before slicing. Makes 2 loaves (may be frozen).

 

TIP: To make a round or rectangular nut bread, divide the dough into two pieces then roll each into a large, thin rectangle, about 12 X 24 inches. Spread each with half of the walnut filling. From the long side, start rolling into a tight jellyroll. You’ll have two rolled “snakes”, each about 2 feet long. Form the rolls into coils on a parchment-lined baking sheet or fold them back and forth onto themselves in buttered bread pans. Cover and allow the loaves to rise again, about 30-45 minutes longer. Brush the loaves with a little beaten egg and water to glaze the tops. Bake at 375˚F for 35-40 minutes, until nicely browned. Remove loaves from pans and cool well before slicing.



DARK CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT TRUFFLES

This simple truffle, loaded with toasted hazelnuts, is a holiday favourite in our family — a recipe from my old friend Bonnie Stern. Just make sure to start with the best dark chocolate you an find. This year I'm using a wonderful 70% artisan chocolate made with beans from Nicaragua for intensely dark cacao flavour, but you can also use commercial chocolate from Valrhona or Callebaut.



1/4 cup granulated sugar

zest of 1 orange

1 cup shelled hazelnuts, toasted and skins removed

1/2 cup unsalted butter

12 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate

3 Tbsp orange-flavored liqueur or brandy (Cointreau or Grand Marnier)

1/2 cup Dutch process cocoa powder

 


In the food processor, combine the sugar and orange zest and process until finely minced.

Add the hazelnuts and pulse until the nuts are finely ground.


Chop the chocolate and put it in a small glass bowl with the butter. Microwave on medium power for 1 minute, stir, then continue to microwave, a minute at a time, stirring until the chocolate is melted. Add to the food processor along with the liqueur and whirl to combine.

Put the truffle mixture into a bowl, cover and refrigerate until firm.

Place the cocoa in a shallow bowl. Scoop out the chocolate mixture and roll into small balls. Roll each ball in cocoa to coat on all sides, then set in a foil cup. Refrigerate or freeze. Makes 50 or 60 truffles.


TIP: To remove the skins from hazelnuts, toast them in the oven at 350F for 10 minutes, then wrap in a clean kitchen towel and rub. Don’t worry if some of the skin remains for this recipe.

 

CRANBERRY PECAN PIE

This is one of my favourite desserts to serve for holiday meals. It’s like a big butter tart but with the added zing of dried cranberries. The fresh orange and cranberry sauce adds another dimension and balances the sweetness so be sure to make it, too.

This is the perfect time to haul out that fancy tart pan with the removable bottom.



Crust:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp brown sugar

pinch salt

1/2 cup butter

1 egg yolk

1 Tbsp milk

 

Filling:

2 whole eggs

1/2 cup granulated  sugar

1 cup corn syrup

1/2 cup melted butter

1 Tbsp all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp orange brandy or frozen orange juice concentrate

grated zest of 2 oranges

1 tsp vanilla extract

pinch salt

2 cups chopped pecans

1 1/2 cups dried cranberries

 

Fruit Sauce:

4 oranges

1 cup fresh cranberries

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup orange juice

1 Tbsp orange brandy

 

To make the crust, combine the flour, sugar, salt and butter in the food processor and process until crumbly. Add the egg yolk and milk. Pulse until the dough forms a ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour to chill.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Roll out the pastry and line a 10-inch tart pan. This pastry is totally forgiving, so don’t panic— any rips or cracks can be repaired by pressing in extra bits of dough. Cover the pastry with foil and add some pie weights or dried beans (this helps the crust bake evenly) and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and cool.

To make the filling, whisk the eggs, sugar, syrup, butter, brandy, zest, vanilla and salt together in a bowl. Stir in the nuts and dried cranberries. Pour into the pie shell and bake for 35–40 minutes, until the filling is set.

To make the sauce, start by sectioning the oranges. Using a sharp, serrated knife, cut a slice from the top and the bottom of each orange, exposing the fruit. Then, working over a bowl to catch any juice, cut away the rind and white pith. Cut between the membranes and the orange segments will fall out into the bowl.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, cook the cranberries with the sugar and orange juice over medium heat. When the berries soften and begin to pop, they’re done. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange sections and brandy. Chill.

Slice the pie into thin wedges and serve with the fruit sauce on the side. Serves 10–12.

 


CRUNCHY ALMOND BARK

This is my version of an expensive almond and pecan candy — even more impressive when made by a creative elf at home. Pull out the parchment paper or your silicon baking sheet for this one. Pack it into pretty holiday tins for gourmet gifts.

 

1 cup butter

1 cup white sugar

6 ounces good quality milk chocolate, grated

1 cup blanched almonds, coarsely chopped

3/4 cup pecans, finely ground

 

In a heavy sauté pan, melt the butter and sugar together over medium heat. When the mixture begins to bubble, add the chopped almonds and increase the heat to medium high.

Stirring constantly, cook for 5-7 minutes, until the mixture turns a nice caramel colour and the nuts are lightly toasted. Be careful, you can easily overdo it and burn the nuts.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper (or use your Silpat silicon sheet) and pour the caramelized sugar mixture onto the pan. Use a metal spoon to quickly spread it evenly and, while it’s hot, grate the milk chocolate over top, then evenly sprinkle with the ground pecans. Use the spoon to press the pecans down evenly over the entire surface of the hot candy. Cool.

When the candy is cold and stiff, break into chunks and store in sealed containers.



 

For more information about buying nuts in BC, visit:

BC Hazelnut Growers Association

 

OR

 

Island Nut Roastery

Sidney BC


©CindaChavich



 

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